Culture

In Photos: A Personal Journey Through The Amrit At Maha Kumbh 2025

Vivek SunderJan 24, 2025, 10:42 AM | Updated 06:38 PM IST
Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan

Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan


In January 2013, the Mahakumbh Mela was merely a fleeting headline for me — a historical oddity of spiritual significance read with detached interest in the morning newspaper.

Fast forward to December 2024, and I still had no plans to attend the grand spectacle of faith slated for January 2025 in Prayagraj.

Life, however, is often a confluence of serendipity and spontaneity. A good friend offered me a spot on a group tour, and before logic could intervene, I heard myself say yes.

I did a fair amount of research before heading off to Prayag. Research, however extensive, proved inadequate. No amount of preparation could have readied me for the scale, energy, and spiritual magnetism of the Maha Kumbh — a phenomenon so immense, it defies description.

Yet here I was, determined to document what words could scarcely capture.

There are no words in the current lexicon that capture the magnitude of the event. If "Juggernaut" is a word that entered the English language because the Jagannath Puri Rath Yatra is an amazing spectacle of devotion and scale, then a new word must similarly enter the lexicon called "Mahakumbh" to describe an event of epic proportions.

Maha Kumbh 2025: A Colossal Celebration of Devotion and Humanity

The Mahakumbh Mela in Prayagraj is a phenomenon that defies description and challenges the imagination. As the 2025 Maha Kumbh unfolds, it has already established itself as one of the most spectacular gatherings in human history.

Over the 46 days of the festival, a jaw-dropping 500 million people are expected to visit the 40 square-kilometre (km) Kumbh area, with the peak day of Mauni Amavasya (29 January) projected to see 60-80 million visitors.

To put this in perspective, imagine the entire population of Britain converging into a town the size of Portsmouth, or all of Tamil Nadu squeezing into Ooty — on a single day!

The 30 pontoon bridges connecting both the banks of Ganga are the lifeline for pilgrims and supplies

A Temporary City on the Riverbed

Nearly all the visitors are housed in sprawling tented camps set up on the riverbed of the Ganges.

Remarkably, this entire area will be submerged under water during the monsoon, just six months from now.

The temporary Kumbh city rivals the grandeur of historical marvels like the Chola Brihadeeswara Temple or the Egyptian Pyramids in terms of human endeavour.

State-of-the-Art Safety and Surveillance

To ensure people's safety in this massive congregation, 2,700 artificial intelligence (AI)-enabled cameras and air and underwater drones have been deployed across the mela.

Additionally, 45,000 police personnel have been stationed across the Kumbh area, supported by 55 temporary police stations. For context, this is three times the police force of Bengaluru, a city 20 times larger.

It would be no exaggeration to call Kumbhnagari one of the safest cities in India during this period.

Surveillance drones, visible as dimly lit objects in the sky

Cleanliness and Hygiene at Scale

This workforce — comparable to that of Bengaluru — is ensuring Kumbhnagari remains the cleanest city in the country, even as it accommodates millions.

Crisis Management and Preparedness

Within just four minutes, fire tenders were on site to douse the flames, and the incident resulted in zero casualties — a testament to the organisers’ efficiency and preparedness.

One can see the cleanliness of the sand and the orderliness of the crowd at Sangam Snan Ghat for the general public

Economic Impact

To put this in perspective, this (annualised) economic output surpasses the gross domestic product (GDP) of over 130 countries! What’s more, much of the infrastructure built for the mela is permanent, promising long-term benefits for the region.

Two men selling janeu (sacred thread) to pilgrims

Roadside barber giving the pilgrims a nice, warm shave

A Melting Pot of Humanity

During my three-day stay, I encountered a vibrant diversity of cultures, languages, and kindness. I heard 26 languages spoken, including 10 foreign languages.

From receiving blessings from nearly every sadhu I photographed, free piping-hot food from camps feeding the masses, and assistance from strangers in every direction, the warmth of humanity was as profound as the celestial significance of this event.

It is not only the adults making the pilgrimage to Maha Kumbh

A child at Maha Kumbh adorning chandan tilak on his forehead

A sadhu at the Maha Kumbh

Themes of Mahakumbh 2025

The organisers of this year’s Maha Kumbh embraced three overarching mottos that encapsulate its essence:

1. स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Triple S): Clean, safe, well-organised

3. अलौकिक, अद्भुत, अकल्पनीय (Triple A): Phenomenal, unique, unimaginable

These nine adjectives perfectly describe Maha Kumbh 2025.

स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Clean, safe, well-organised) Maha Kumbh 2025

The Story of the Kumbh 

The saga begins with Indra’s arrogance, which leads Rishi Durvasa to curse the Devas, stripping them of their power. Seeking restoration, the Devas turn to Lord Vishnu, who suggests the churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan) to retrieve the nectar of immortality (Amrit).

Sagar Manthan depicted in stone at Angkor Vat in Cambodia

The churning involves the Devas and Asuras using the serpent Vasuki as a rope and Mount Mandar as the churning rod, balanced on Vishnu in his tortoise (Kurma) avatar. This effort yields extraordinary treasures:

  • Halahala poison: Consumed by Shiva, earning him the name Neelakantha

  • Kamadhenu: The wish-fulfilling cow

  • Panchajanya: The divine conch

  • Parijata: The night jasmine

  • Dhanvantari: The god of ayurveda

  • Lakshmi: The goddess of wealth

  • Amrit: The nectar of immortality contained in an earthen pot (Kumbh)

  • A fierce battle ensues between the Devas and Asuras for the Amrit. Lord Vishnu, in his enchanting Mohini avatar, distracts the Asuras and ensures the Devas secure the nectar.

    During the chaos, drops of Amrit fall to the earth at four places: Haridwar, Prayagraj, Ujjain, and Nashik — the sites of the Kumbh Mela.

    The Astronomical Significance

    The timing of each Kumbh is aligned with specific planetary movements:

    • Haridwar: Jupiter in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries

  • Nasik: Jupiter in Leo

  • Ujjain: Jupiter in Leo, with the Sun in Aries

  • This year, the 2025 Maha Kumbh marks a once-in-144-year event, aligning the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with the Pushya Nakshatra. The resulting cosmic energy was palpable throughout my stay, creating an atmosphere of profound spiritual intensity.

    A sadhu blowing a conch at the end of his prayers and dip in the Ganga

    The Naga Sadhus: Guardians of Tradition

    A Naga sadhu akhara returning to their camp for a special ceremony or puja

    A Naga sadhu in his ashram

    The Kumbh Mela has a fairly large contingent of Sikhs, or the "Udaseen" order sadhus, who are the third type of akharas amongst the 13 main akharas

    A Vaishnavite akhara with flags and chants of Jai Sri Ram

    A sadhu carrying a golden trishul (trident)

    A Profound Experience

    From the vibrant diversity of languages to the warmth of human interaction, the Maha Kumbh 2025 encapsulates the very best of humanity.

    Whether through the lens of spirituality, celestial alignment, or the living heritage of the Naga sadhus, the Maha Kumbh is a reminder of the timeless connection between the cosmos, culture, and community.

    Let me run you through the three days I spent at Mahakumbh and what they looked like.

    The Prayagraj Airport has been spruced up to receive crores of pilgrims at Maha Kumbh 2025

    Day Zero: Arrival in a City Transformed

    The city was a hive of movement, a symphony of trains, buses, and planes ferrying an astonishing 500 million pilgrims over 46 days.

    The tented camps with 24x7 electricity, running water, and hot water

    One striking feature of the Maha Kumbh is cleanliness of the whole encampment. This photo of a Snan Ghat is how most of the Kumbhanagari was.

    Private changing enclosures separately built for ladies coming to take a snan in the Sangam

    An akhara crossing the pontoon bridge to return to their camp after the Amrit Snan in Ganga

    Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan

    Day One: A Sea of Humanity

    The energy was electric, yet remarkably safe.

    A sea of humanity at the Mahakumbh 2025.

    The monastic tradition of akharas also includes women. Sadhvis (female monks) were all over the Maha Kumbh

    Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara being carried in a motorised chariot towards the Sangham Ghat

    Day Two: The First Amrit Snan

    As the sun rose, an ocean of humanity surged forward, chanting “Har Har Mahadev!” The air vibrated with devotion, the collective energy of 20 million souls culminating in a crescendo of spiritual fervour.

    A pilgrim all the way from Kashmir taking an early morning dip in the Ganga

    The sadhus, especially the elusive Naga sadhus, commanded attention. Clad only in ash, their austere presence was a reminder of the ancient traditions anchoring this modern marvel.

    A young sadhu standing calmly in a chilly atmosphere at 6 degrees Celsius

    A tapasvi with a crown and adornment of hundreds of Rudraksha beads. The smoke is from the sacred fire and his chillum (smoking pipe)

    Day Three: Farewell to a Once-in-a-Lifetime Event

    The 1,000-year-old Nag Vasuki temple, dedicated to the divine serpant Vasuki, was rebuilt by Marathas after it was destroyed by the invaders

    These boatmen have plied their trade on "Maa Ganga" for generations

    Me on the bank of Ganga

    Reflections on the Indescribable

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