Culture
Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan
In January 2013, the Mahakumbh Mela was merely a fleeting headline for me — a historical oddity of spiritual significance read with detached interest in the morning newspaper.
Fast forward to December 2024, and I still had no plans to attend the grand spectacle of faith slated for January 2025 in Prayagraj.
Life, however, is often a confluence of serendipity and spontaneity. A good friend offered me a spot on a group tour, and before logic could intervene, I heard myself say yes.
I did a fair amount of research before heading off to Prayag. Research, however extensive, proved inadequate. No amount of preparation could have readied me for the scale, energy, and spiritual magnetism of the Maha Kumbh — a phenomenon so immense, it defies description.
Yet here I was, determined to document what words could scarcely capture.
There are no words in the current lexicon that capture the magnitude of the event. If "Juggernaut" is a word that entered the English language because the Jagannath Puri Rath Yatra is an amazing spectacle of devotion and scale, then a new word must similarly enter the lexicon called "Mahakumbh" to describe an event of epic proportions.
Maha Kumbh 2025: A Colossal Celebration of Devotion and Humanity
The Mahakumbh Mela in Prayagraj is a phenomenon that defies description and challenges the imagination. As the 2025 Maha Kumbh unfolds, it has already established itself as one of the most spectacular gatherings in human history.
Over the 46 days of the festival, a jaw-dropping 500 million people are expected to visit the 40 square-kilometre (km) Kumbh area, with the peak day of Mauni Amavasya (29 January) projected to see 60-80 million visitors.
To put this in perspective, imagine the entire population of Britain converging into a town the size of Portsmouth, or all of Tamil Nadu squeezing into Ooty — on a single day!
A Temporary City on the Riverbed
Nearly all the visitors are housed in sprawling tented camps set up on the riverbed of the Ganges.
Remarkably, this entire area will be submerged under water during the monsoon, just six months from now.
The temporary Kumbh city rivals the grandeur of historical marvels like the Chola Brihadeeswara Temple or the Egyptian Pyramids in terms of human endeavour.
State-of-the-Art Safety and Surveillance
To ensure people's safety in this massive congregation, 2,700 artificial intelligence (AI)-enabled cameras and air and underwater drones have been deployed across the mela.
Additionally, 45,000 police personnel have been stationed across the Kumbh area, supported by 55 temporary police stations. For context, this is three times the police force of Bengaluru, a city 20 times larger.
It would be no exaggeration to call Kumbhnagari one of the safest cities in India during this period.
Cleanliness and Hygiene at Scale
This workforce — comparable to that of Bengaluru — is ensuring Kumbhnagari remains the cleanest city in the country, even as it accommodates millions.
Crisis Management and Preparedness
Within just four minutes, fire tenders were on site to douse the flames, and the incident resulted in zero casualties — a testament to the organisers’ efficiency and preparedness.
Economic Impact
To put this in perspective, this (annualised) economic output surpasses the gross domestic product (GDP) of over 130 countries! What’s more, much of the infrastructure built for the mela is permanent, promising long-term benefits for the region.
A Melting Pot of Humanity
During my three-day stay, I encountered a vibrant diversity of cultures, languages, and kindness. I heard 26 languages spoken, including 10 foreign languages.
From receiving blessings from nearly every sadhu I photographed, free piping-hot food from camps feeding the masses, and assistance from strangers in every direction, the warmth of humanity was as profound as the celestial significance of this event.
Themes of Mahakumbh 2025
The organisers of this year’s Maha Kumbh embraced three overarching mottos that encapsulate its essence:
1. स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Triple S): Clean, safe, well-organised
3. अलौकिक, अद्भुत, अकल्पनीय (Triple A): Phenomenal, unique, unimaginable
These nine adjectives perfectly describe Maha Kumbh 2025.
The Story of the Kumbh
The saga begins with Indra’s arrogance, which leads Rishi Durvasa to curse the Devas, stripping them of their power. Seeking restoration, the Devas turn to Lord Vishnu, who suggests the churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan) to retrieve the nectar of immortality (Amrit).
The churning involves the Devas and Asuras using the serpent Vasuki as a rope and Mount Mandar as the churning rod, balanced on Vishnu in his tortoise (Kurma) avatar. This effort yields extraordinary treasures:
Halahala poison: Consumed by Shiva, earning him the name Neelakantha
Kamadhenu: The wish-fulfilling cow
Panchajanya: The divine conch
Parijata: The night jasmine
Dhanvantari: The god of ayurveda
Lakshmi: The goddess of wealth
Amrit: The nectar of immortality contained in an earthen pot (Kumbh)
A fierce battle ensues between the Devas and Asuras for the Amrit. Lord Vishnu, in his enchanting Mohini avatar, distracts the Asuras and ensures the Devas secure the nectar.
During the chaos, drops of Amrit fall to the earth at four places: Haridwar, Prayagraj, Ujjain, and Nashik — the sites of the Kumbh Mela.
The Astronomical Significance
The timing of each Kumbh is aligned with specific planetary movements:
Haridwar: Jupiter in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries
Nasik: Jupiter in Leo
Ujjain: Jupiter in Leo, with the Sun in Aries
This year, the 2025 Maha Kumbh marks a once-in-144-year event, aligning the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with the Pushya Nakshatra. The resulting cosmic energy was palpable throughout my stay, creating an atmosphere of profound spiritual intensity.
The Naga Sadhus: Guardians of Tradition
A Profound Experience
From the vibrant diversity of languages to the warmth of human interaction, the Maha Kumbh 2025 encapsulates the very best of humanity.
Whether through the lens of spirituality, celestial alignment, or the living heritage of the Naga sadhus, the Maha Kumbh is a reminder of the timeless connection between the cosmos, culture, and community.
Let me run you through the three days I spent at Mahakumbh and what they looked like.
Day Zero: Arrival in a City Transformed
The city was a hive of movement, a symphony of trains, buses, and planes ferrying an astonishing 500 million pilgrims over 46 days.
Day One: A Sea of Humanity
The energy was electric, yet remarkably safe.
Day Two: The First Amrit Snan
As the sun rose, an ocean of humanity surged forward, chanting “Har Har Mahadev!” The air vibrated with devotion, the collective energy of 20 million souls culminating in a crescendo of spiritual fervour.
The sadhus, especially the elusive Naga sadhus, commanded attention. Clad only in ash, their austere presence was a reminder of the ancient traditions anchoring this modern marvel.
Day Three: Farewell to a Once-in-a-Lifetime Event
Reflections on the Indescribable