Uttarakhand's Char Dhams: Where Lines of Temple ‘Control’ Blur Amid Surging Pilgrim Numbers 

Uttarakhand's engagement with the temple control debate has been a heated one and ripe with dramatic twists and turns. 

Centred on the Char Dhams -- Yamunotri, Gangotri, Badrinath and Kedarnath devasthanas -- it percolated into politics, saw the opposition in a BJP-ruled state latching on to hopes of coming back to power in the 2022 state polls, compelled changes on the top-post of chief minister and led the government to coil back and demolish a law that would give the government control of temples. 

Today, Uttarakhand has successfully implemented a unique management system for the Char Dhams. Yamunotri and Gangotri are under purohit-led management, while the Shri Badarinath Kedarnath Temple Committee (BKTC), an autonomous body established in 1939, oversees Badrinath and Kedarnath. Meanwhile, the state government actively works to enhance and strengthen the infrastructure supporting the Char Dham Yatra. 

A report on the Amar Ujala website published after the ceremonial closing of the doors of Yamunotri Dham in November this year mentions that the leap in pilgrim footfall has not seen arrangements and facilities improving to meet the needs of a surge in devotees. It adds that development of infrastructure needed to make the yatra more convenient is lacking, and projects promised more than a decade ago -- such as a ropeway -- have not reached the ground. 

The Janakichatti path -- a portion of the yatra meant to be covered on foot -- was in a dismal state due to the harsh rains despite the state machinery pumping in crores for its maintenance, the report said. 

The report adds that an additional amount of Rs 500 crore funds from the government have been demanded. The tone of the report suggests that the government is not doing enough for the infrastructure around Yamunotri Dham. While the responsibility of pilgrims’ safety lies with the government, this report prompts one to ask a question: What, how much, and why, is the government expected to pitch in when the argument and debate in the region between 2019 and 2021 was about the control of temples remaining completely in the hands of tirth-purohits? 

Past Frictions And Firefighting  

In December 2019, the Uttarakhand government tabled the Uttarakhand Char Dham Shrine Management Bill in the state Assembly. The development took place amid protests within the Vidhan Sabha and outside. 

Passed in the Assembly, the bill became the Uttarakhand Char Dham Devasthanam Management Act, 2019, bringing the Char Dham – the four prime destinations of worship Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri and 49 other temples, under the purview of the proposed shrine board, which would be constituted and named Uttarakhand Char Dham Devasthanam Board in January 2020.

Tirth purohits of the four shrines opposed the law tooth and nail. They saw it as a power-emboldened trespassing and encroachment of their traditional rights by the BJP-led government in power. 

Anger of the pujaris against CM Trivendra Singh Rawat visibly surpassed the anticipated mark when he was forced to return from Kedarnath. They raised slogans against him at the protests. 

Purohits at the four hams said that they were kept in the dark about the Devasthanam Board, the law, and alleged that it was an infringement of their rights. 

They wanted the board abolished and expressed fears that the board was meant to take full control of temple-related issues and was sidelining them.

The 21-month long protests against the law would come to an end in November 2021 with the Uttarakhand government bending to pressures and weight of the local sentiment, and withdrawing the law, as promised by then chief minister Pushkar Singh Dhami. 

By end of November 2021, when Char Dham Teerth Purohit Mahapanchayat spokesperson Brijesh Sati gave a statement to the press welcoming the move, Uttarakhand saw its third chief minister between the tabling and passing of the Devasthanam bill and its withdrawal.

Politics and Propaganda

Uttarakhand government's withdrawal of the Uttarakhand Char Dham Devasthanam Management Act and Board was termed as “historical” by the Char Dham Teerth Purohit Mahapanchayat as well as the Vishva Hindu Parishad. 

The statement from Vishwa Hindu Parishad’s (VHP) working international president Alok Kumar welcoming the step reportedly mentioned that the movement to ensure no government control on temples, will continue. He also said that the resources of Hindu temples should be under the Hindu society for Hindu welfare only. Hindu activists on social media were of the similar view.

In their protest against the Char Dham Devasthanam Board, priests associated with the Char Dham Teerth-Purohit Hak Hakookdhari Mahapanchayat Samiti added another political dimension to their protests against the law. They decided to field their own candidates in the 2022 state assembly polls in at least 15 constituencies at and around the Char Dhams. The idea behind this move was to make the public aware of how the "government was encroaching upon centuries-old traditional rights".

Sanjay Dobhal, MLA from Yamunotri says, “It is true that tirth purohits thought that their rights were being taken away. As an MLA, my duty is to be the voice of the people before the government. I keep concerns of the tirth purohits on different issues before the government and clear doubts. Sometimes, government intervention is required. One cannot deny that at times matters regarding temple-control are politicised.” 

He adds, ”Yamunotri dham tirth-purohits were happy when the government scrapped the Devasthanam Board Act, however, I believe that the government at that time, should have focussed on its communication. Tirth-purohits appreciate government-cooperation on different issues from time to time, however, areas of security and pilgrim-facilities need improvement.”  

Surging Numbers, Challenges, Delivery 

For pilgrimage to begin on May 10 (the day is celebrated as Akshaya Tritiya in the Hindu calendar), registrations for the yatra commenced on April 25. Within just the first six days of the Yatra, reportedly 3,34,732 pilgrims visited the Char Dhams. 

The surge in the pilgrim arrival compelled the state administration to take some strict actions against activities that lead to crowding in proximity to the Dhams. A ban on mobile phone usage within a 200-metre radius of the Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri temples was imposed. The decision was taken in a high-level meeting chaired by CM Dhami himself. 

The state government also decided to cease the VIP
darshan at the Char Dham temples for "better management" amid a consistent surge "till May 31 2024.” To bring order to the traffic inflow, the government allowed only registered vehicles on the Char Dham route.

According to government data, 47,03, 905 yatris took the pilgrimage to the Char Dhams in 2024 (compared to 34.77 lakh in 2019 and 46.29 lakh in 2022 as per reports); 246 pilgrims died during the yatra this year. In 2024, Yamunotri dham was in news for various challenges faced by pilgrims this year. CM Dhami got directly involved in resolving issues with the help of officials.  

Traffic jams, some reportedly 14-15 kms long, extending to 24 hours in parts of the pilgrimage route, affected the yatra. A harsh rainy season led to the washing out of parts of the pilgrimage route, adding challenges and reducing days for the yatra. 

Fortunately, the Dhami government was proactive in taking charge of situations arising from unprecedented surge in the number of pilgrims and a chaotic monsoon. That said, the government also faced resentment and reactions from Yatra stakeholders for regulating, capping and channelising the inflow for the well-being of the pilgrims. 

Trivendra Singh Rawat sensed an overwhelming influx of pilgrims to the Char Dhams in Uttarakhand much before it started pouring in. He reportedly saw the possibility of pilgrim numbers soaring to one crore in the coming years. Reminding many of Rawat’s foresight, surging numbers of devotees coming for the Yatra during 2022-2024 posed challenges in crowd management on roads and the four Dhams.

Review meetings of the Yatra are a subject of media scrutiny as they reveal the CM’s expectations from high level officers. In one such meeting, he reportedly instructed senior officers of administration and Inspector General (IG) level officers to remain on field for ensuring smooth operations. 

One of the key facets of the Yatra that CM Dhami is particular about is pilgrim-registration. He even warned officers of strict action in case they failed to discharge duties properly, particularly regarding pilgrims reaching the Dhams without registration.

There are other facets of CM Dhami’s focus on the yatra too. These are: First: pilgrims get equal time for darshan at all the four Dhams. Darshan, the act and moment of the deity's glimpse, is the core of the pilgrimage undertaken by the devotee. When the state CM mentions it in the high level meeting, he has revealed his attention as a bhakt.

The officers expected to deliver the task would ideally be answerable to the CM just as the CM is to the pilgrims. Devotees visiting prime temples across India express their sadness, anger and disappointment at the shoving and pushing of devotees seen or received during darshan. 

Two: senior citizens should be given preference in the registration process and in darshan. The importance of pilgrimage for the elderly is well-known and well-recorded in Sanatan culture. Unhindered and smooth darshan means everything to the senior citizen. If the high level committee or an umbrella committee in the coming years delivers on these two aspects, Uttarakhand Char Dham Yatra will etch itself as an inspiration to other pilgrimage destinations. 

Three: regulation exercised in releasing pilgrimage slots from Haridwar and Rishikesh for the four Dhams. Pretty much everything rests on this one area of administration, monitoring, and control - considering traffic flow, the delicate geography that cradles the Char Dhams, pilgrim safety, crowd management at the four Dhams and surrounding areas.

Four: regulation of darshan time for pilgrims in coordination and consultation with the BKTC. 

Five: preparedness and making essential arrangements for the monsoon. Six: monitoring of the basic facilities such as cleaning, sanitation, drinking water at the holding-hubs for pilgrims.

However, such is the tone of narrative in sections of the media in Uttarakhand that any set of measures towards "regulation" tends to acquire a sense of fear or caution in the eyes of stakeholders whose livelihoods are strung together with the Yatra and the Char Dhams.

This clever demonising of the word "regulation", where it is projected as "reminiscent" of the repealed Devasthanam Management Board 2019, sends political temperatures soaring during summer while the Yatra is in progress. 

A senior official says on the condition of anonymity: "This is not all. Every time there is a well-meaning action aimed at making darshan and Yatra smooth and safe for the pilgrims coming up, or a decision that goes towards preserving the sanctity of the Dham, objections are raised by a section of stakeholders. The government steps back or repeals. There is a pattern to it."

Despite its presence to micromanage issues that are crucial to safe and smooth completion of the Yatra, the government faced threats of agitation from the business community during the Yatra this year. Reportedly, objections have been raised regarding the perceived "flawed" policy of capping the daily number of pilgrims to the four Dhams.

On its part, the government did not use a tough and firm tone. 

Several media reports between 2022-2024 indicate that the surge of tourists seems to weigh down government-efforts towards crowd management despite best efforts. There are times during the
yatra when the "vyavastha" seems "bhagwan bharose" – an expression used for situations that work on autopilot mode - completely dependent on divine will or fate.

Two years after they wanted the Devasthanam Board scrapped and succeeded, sections of stakeholders and purohits have objected to restrictions set by the government for the number of pilgrims coming to the Chardham Yatra.

A report in March 2024 stated that stakeholders -- including purohits, hoteliers, traders and transporters associated with the Char Dham Yatra – were upset about possible limits on the number of pilgrims for the Char Dham Yatra.

Relaxation on the mandatory registration for the pilgrims from Uttarakhand was also being demanded. The Chardham Teerth Purohit Mahapanchayat came to the forefront staging a dharna in March. Sensing an impasse, Gangotri MLA Suresh Chauhan intervened to pacify the angered tirth purohits.

What Makes Badri-Kedar A Different Turf 

Interestingly, the autonomous BKTC, with a government official as its CEO, would have ceased to exist with the Char Dham Devasthanam Act, 2019, bringing Kedarnath and Badrinath, and the 45 associated temples under the BKTC, under the control of the Char Dham Devasthanam Board. 

Earlier this year, while presenting the budget, the BKTC told the media that the focus was on facilities for pilgrims, maintaining temples, rejuvenation, worship and bhog arrangements, upkeep of pilgrim accommodation, rejuvenation and reconstruction at temples, development, construction of office spaces dedicated to the temples, and well-being of Sanskrit Vidyalayas under the BKTC, among other aspects.

Key takeaways from BKTC’s work (2022-2024) highlight how an autonomous body can unite efforts for temple preservation, infrastructure, pilgrims, government, tirth purohits, a royal family tied to temple traditions, and local sentiments. 

Tradition: In 2024, the BKTC was in news for completing the process of the appointment of the Nayab Rawal for Badrinath Dham with the approval and representational participation of the royal family of Tehri. The Rawals of Badrinath come from the Namboodiri Brahmin community of Kerala.

The BKTC issued a "vigyapti" in sections of the Malayalam press. Says BKTC Chairman Ajendra Ajay: "The process of appointment began with the permission and participation of the Maharaja of Tehri as per his powers delineated in the Badrinath-Kedarnath Mandir Act 1939. A representative of the royal family participated in the interaction facet of the appointment process. A copy of the letter of appointment of the Nayab Rawal was addressed to the Maharaja of Tehri. The BKTC has upheld the rights of individuals and traditions. We are not touching the rights of any individual associated with the two Dhams."   

Temple security during winter: BKTC raised concerns with the state government about the security of the two Dhams and requested for additional forces from the home ministry. As a result, the Indian Tibetan Border Force took charge of the security for the Kedarnath and Badrinath temples for the six-month closure during the winter season. The two Dhams have dedicated platoons keeping a vigil to protect temple sanctity. 

The state tourism ministry is expected to prioritise its repair for the preservation of the temple and for pilgrim-safety. Ajay added, "We wrote to the Archaeological Survey of India and Geological Survey of India, urging them for insights into the damage, assessing the challenges being faced by the temple, and restoration possibilities. We are expecting a report for them." 

The Tungnath Temple is not officially protected by the ASI, yet a team from ASI visited the site and shared recommendations. Understanding that preserving the structural integrity of the Tungnath Temple is of utmost importance, the BKTC has sought help from the Central Building Research Institute (CBRI). "The state government has requested the BKTC to invite CBRI for expertise on the structural preservation of the temple."  

During the Yatra in 2024, Reliance Industries chairman Mukesh Ambani visited Badrinath and Kedarnath Dham ahead of Diwali. He donated Rs 5 crore to the two temples. An assuring example of collaboration between the BKTC and a donor is when Mukesh Ambani was informed about developments and renovation needs at Tungnath, the highest of the Panch Kedar temples and the highest Shiva temple. The BKTC chairman gave Ambani details of the planned efforts on reconstruction, beautification of the temples and requested him for support.  

The BKTC also has plans to work on building centres that provide accommodation and basic facilities to pilgrims arriving for darshan at the Kedarnath Dham.

If the BKTC keeps up with its momentum of work shown between 2022 and 2024, it might be able to, with good strategies and homework from the state government, plan well and structure the growing inflow in Badrinath and Kedarnath Dham, for unhindered pilgrimage, without making the pilgrimage window burdensome on the region. 

The Way Forward 

When CM Dhami abolished the Devasthanam Board Act, he cited the "interests of people, honour of priests, and respect for all stakeholders." That said, the Uttarakhand government must ensure its involvement to maximize the effective use of funds in the region and not be deterred by political challenges.

The government needs to work on its communication with the tirth-purohits of Gangotri and Yamunotri, temple committees, and tirth purohit maha sabhas and stakeholders to avoid misunderstanding on registration, traffic regulation, gate systems, diversions to temples in the region for crowd management. 

The government must emphasize that yatri registration is vital for their safety and well-being and should focus on improving online and offline processes.

The tirth-purohit-government partnership will safeguard local traditions, rituals, and sentiments by combining the strengths of the state and faith keepers. 

In Uttarakhand, owing to several factors, temple control is about issues that can be solved only by work backed by states and central governments. Preserving temple sanctity would require taking into account and understanding that political values of a government, or a party leading a government, matter to the sanctity of the traditional rights of the purohits. Those should not be touched or not meddled with in the name of government control. 

The Dhami-led government understands it. Now, it needs to balance the hot and cold of truth, and look into how BKTC has contributed to the two Dhams in the Char Dhams between 2022 and 2024.