A Visit To Mayong: The Black Magic Capital Of India

Mayong, a picturesque village nestled along the banks of the Brahmaputra in Assam, has long been associated with the arcane.

For centuries, it was shrouded in mystery, feared as the ‘Land of Black Magic,’ where people allegedly vanished into thin air, transformed into animals, or wielded supernatural powers. The very mention of Mayong invoked awe and trepidation, and its reputation kept outsiders at bay.

However, over the years, this enigmatic land has undergone a significant transformation. Today, the same mystical traditions that once inspired fear have evolved into practices of healing, making Mayong a hub for alternative medicine.

The origin of the name Mayong remains a subject of speculation. Some believe it derives from the Sanskrit word Maya, meaning illusion, while others trace it to the Dimasa word Miyong, meaning elephant, a nod to the region’s past as a habitat for these majestic creatures.

Mayong is deeply embedded in Assamese folklore and ancient Hindu mythology. References to its mystical powers can be found in the Mahabharata, where it is believed that Hidimba, the second wife of Bheema, belonged to the Kachari Kingdom. British East India Company records mention that the Kachari king was referred to as Hidimbesvar, linking the kingdom’s history to Bheema and Hidimba’s son, Ghatotkacha.

Legends of Mayong’s dark arts are not confined to mythology but extend to historical events. In 1337 CE, Emperor Muhammad Shah’s formidable army of 1,00,000 horsemen, sent to conquer the Ahom kingdom, is said to have mysteriously disappeared within the forests of Mayong—never to be seen again.

The New Face of Mayong

The tantric practitioners of old, once labeled as sorcerers, have transformed into revered healers known as "Bez" or "Oja." These individuals employ ancient mantras, rituals, and herbal remedies to treat ailments ranging from broken bones to chronic diseases.

Unlike conventional medicine, the healing traditions of Mayong do not rely on scientific explanations. Instead, they blend spiritual chants, holistic touch, and plant-based treatments that have been passed down through generations. Villagers and even outsiders now seek out these traditional healers, finding solace in their age-old remedies.

While exploring the village, a signboard caught the my eye: "Available—Vashikaran, Mohini-Kabas, and treatment of venereal disease." Intrigue led me to the home of a Bez, Khongeswar Kalita. 

When asked whether magic is real, Kalita responded, “Magic is sadhana (spiritual practice). It is not meant for public display. Today, we primarily use magic for healing, employing the Tantric method.”

Kalita elaborated on his healing abilities. “We provide treatment for various ailments. Most people first seek help from doctors. But when medical treatment fails, they turn to us. Recently, a patient with a fractured leg was advised amputation after 48 days of failed treatment. He came to me, and I gave him a mantra-infused creeper to tie around his ankle. Within days, the fracture healed. We Tantrics provide relief when all else fails, even for gupta rog (secret diseases) like infertility and sexual disorders.”

Another prominent Tantric in Mayong is Prabin Sakia Bez. His residence, adorned with a modern gateway featuring Radha-Krishna imagery, stands out. Outside, cars line up, and inside, patients wait for their turn in an organized manner, much like a conventional medical clinic. A notebook at the entrance records names in order of arrival.

Sakia’s reputation extends beyond Assam. Patients travel from distant metro cities like Mumbai and Delhi, and even from international locations. One such patient, Béatrice (name changed), had traveled from Paris seeking relief for chronic back pain.

Sakia had provided her with a mantra-infused creeper to tie around her waist. “Allopathic treatment has too many side effects,” she said. “This remedy works miraculously without any.”

Beyond Healing: The Power of Black Magic

He recounted a recent case where a woman suffered from unexplained stomach pain. “Her medical tests showed nothing. I discovered she was a victim of black magic and cured her.”

Kalita mentioned, “We also use magic to find thieves. By chanting mantras over a bowl, we can make it move on its own and guide us to the thief. Many villagers have benefited from our magic.”

When I asked him about the signboard outside his house, Kalita explained, “Vashikaran is a form of magic used to resolve disputes between couples, and is best performed on Tuesdays and Saturdays. For Man Mohini, we chant a mantra over oil, rub it on our forehead, then transfer it to our partner’s forehead to rekindle love. Using Khel Mohini, we resolve conflicts among family members and people in society. A mantra-infused tamul-paan (betel leaf and areca nut) can make someone favor you instantly. It always works.”

Another powerful form, Raj Mohini, is said to be used by politicians. “We prepare an item made from nine dhatus (alloys), crafted by a maker who must follow strict rules—he cannot speak, spit, or break other taboos. Whoever wears it cannot be harmed.”

When I excitedly asked if such abilities still existed, Kalita laughed and said, “Yes, we can use Luki Mantra to become invisible. There’s also Nidra Mantra, which can put you to sleep instantly, and Agni Mantra, which can set things on fire. When I was learning, I once tested it on a tree. It worked, and I quickly reversed it to avoid harm. Trees are also creations of God.”

I was fascinated about magic and how one becomes a magician.

Is Magico-Medicine Legal?

In February 2024, the Assam government enacted the Assam Healing (Prevention of Evil) Practices Bill, aiming to curb magical healing and other occult practices deemed harmful. The bill criminalizes such acts, making them non-bailable and punishable with up to five years in prison and a fine of up to ₹1 lakh.

The government stated that the legislation was necessary to prevent deceptive and dangerous healing practices that pose risks to both physical and mental health. However, traditional healers like Khongeswar Kalita remain defiant.

This reflects the deep-rooted cultural and spiritual significance of these practices in Mayong, where belief in magic is not just a profession but a way of life.

Last year, the Government of Assam, in fact, organised Mayong Indrajal Magic Festival on August 18 to show the village's unique mystic heritage. Local magicians from Mayong showcased their crafts and there was a performance by renowned magician Jadu Samrat Bikram.

Mayong remains a land where the boundaries between myth and reality blur. While the fear of black magic has faded, the legacy of sorcery lives on through alternative healing and Tantric rituals. Visitors come seeking cures, knowledge, and a glimpse into a mystical past that refuses to be forgotten.