Dalmandi: Widening A Historic Lane Near Kashi Vishwanath Reveals Complexities Of Temple Town Development

In Varanasi, just about 200 metres from where pilgrims enter the Kashi Vishwanath temple, lies the Dalmandi Gali. This narrow lane, mostly congested, stretches a little over half a kilometre and, according to locals, is considered one of the oldest markets in Varanasi’s old city.

With a majority Muslim population, the lane has for generations served as a market for modest-income families to shop for their daily needs, and for retailers from across the Purvanchal region to source for their own shops.

Older residents of this lane recall times when the upper floors of the buildings were set as dance halls or tawaif khanas, spaces where courtesans performed, while small shops began to set up on the ground floors below.

“Earlier, while people did small businesses in shops, the sound of tawaifs’ anklets, tabla, and the courtesans’ songs could be heard from upstairs,” a shop owner in the lane tells Swarajya, sharing what he had heard from his forefathers.

“Over time, those shops grew in number, turning Dalmandi into a busy market. It is known for its decorative and wedding-related items. Today, it is a place for women’s clothing, accessories, cosmetics, jewellery, make-up and more,” he adds.

For decades, the lane saw no planned development or regulations. Encroachments kept growing, and this unchecked expansion with shops and stalls spilling further narrowed the lane. In some stretches, it shrinks to just a few feet.

Now, however, Dalmandi has come into focus. In July, the Yogi government approved a project to widen the road to more than four times its current width, turning it into a key access route to handle the growing rush of pilgrims and vehicles heading to the temple.

This is being seen as the second-biggest development initiative in Varanasi after the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor.

In August 2025, Prime Minister Narendra Modi laid the foundation for the widening project, which is being executed by the Uttar Pradesh Public Works Department (PWD).

Widening Brings Back Memories of Kashi Corridor Development

While the plan promises better infrastructure, it has again raised the tough questions of displacement, compensation, as well as the debate on balancing modern needs with the area’s centuries-old character. It is a reminder of the politics around the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor development in 2021.

Even before the widening plan was officially cleared, locals had filed petitions and staged protests against demolitions and the proposed changes to Dalmandi.

So far, nearly 50 cases have been filed, covering issues such as compensation, acquisition of religious structures, and the rights of tenants. As per a recent report, concerns rose further when the Varanasi Municipal Corporation directed the PWD to deduct pending property tax dues from the compensation meant for affected owners.

The government has assured residents and shopkeepers that no building will be taken without fair compensation. However, people are waiting to see what concrete steps the administration will take and how the process will unfold.

For those directly affected, such changes are never easy. Before tensions escalate and overshadow the real issues, it is important to focus on the details of the widening project and understand the actual challenges on the ground.

Even after fair compensation is promised, there are deeper complexities concerning the people. These challenges also reveal how development unfolds in historic areas, especially around temples, as similar projects are likely to be carried out at major temples across India.

The Need of the Widening Project

According to K.K. Singh, Executive Engineer, PWD, the widening of Dalmandi Road will not only ease the movement of the general public but also increase district revenue by enhancing religious tourism. Varanasi, one of the oldest religious cities and a major pilgrimage site, draws millions of devotees and tourists every year, with the Kashi Vishwanath temple at its heart.

Dalmandi Gali connects Girja Ghar (Nai Sadak) to Maidagin–Godauliya Road near Chauk Thana. Once widened, it will provide direct access to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, with Gate No. 4 being the closest, as well as to Rajendra Chauraha, Dashashwamedh Chauraha, and other major temples.

Geographically, it is the shortest and most accessible route to the temple premises. As per officials, the lane was not always so narrow. Its width has gradually decreased over time due to encroachments.

At present, vehicle movement through this lane is almost impossible. Two-wheelers, pedestrians, shops spilling onto the street, and handcarts carrying goods all compete for the same space. This is why the road is generally avoided for through-traffic despite its central location.

“Working towards a wider road opens up multiple opportunities in this densely populated area. It also opens up the possibility of one-way regulations when needed, and improves circulation patterns for both vehicles and pedestrians,” the PWD official tells Swarajya.

The project also includes shifting of utilities such as underground cabling, wiring, and the installation of proper sewer lines beneath the footpaths, which is essential given the age of these settlements.

“As the widening will improve access to the temple, it will also benefit the entire densely populated area, where connectivity has long been a problem,” the official adds.

It will open up opportunities for Dalmandi Lane as well, which remains heavily congested and largely unnoticed by tourists.

Voices From Dalmandi

At the entrance of Dalmandi from the temple side, mobile phone shops become the first sight. Further inside the narrow lane, however, the market changes with stalls and shops selling dresses, shoes, purses and more.

Imran Ahmed, whose family has been running a shop in Dalmandi for over 50 years, shares, “We sell sherwanis and ethnic attire. This business started in 2004, but before that, it was a cracker shop run by our previous generations for decades. The home is upstairs, and we run the shop downstairs.”

“Most of the market has now shifted towards clothing. For any woman preparing for her wedding, Dalmandi has everything she needs, from bridal clothes, jewellery, make-up and even utensils and appliances for her new household.”

Still, in a gali packed with people and shops, opinions were plenty, and some were willing to share their personal situations.

“We are not against the development. If road widening helps traffic circulation and improves access to the Kashi Vishwanath temple, then why not?” said a shopkeeper selling buttons and decorative materials for clothing.

He added, “Even if a portion of our shop goes in the widening, the remaining part will still benefit us. A wider road will bring more vehicles and tourists. This will only bring more customers and better business for the market.”

But not everyone feels the same way. “Many here are not literate to fully understand this,” another local shopkeeper added. “They will continue to oppose it, mostly framing it in terms of religion or culture, without seeing the opportunities.”

However, even those who agreed with the development had some concerns, and questioned the proposed width of the road, as well as why only this lane was chosen for widening.

The main concern for many is how compensation will be handled. The lane has hundreds of small shops spread across multiple properties. Many shops in the area are rented, with leases passed down through generations, leaving them uncertain about whether they will be entitled to any compensation.

“Most shops have been arranged for years under the pagdi system, where tenants pay a large upfront amount to the owner and then continue with a minimal rent. But these payments are rarely documented. There is only a tenant agreement,” another person added.

“The tenancy agreements do not mention the lump-sum money we gave to the owners.” Many such cases exist throughout the market, with complicated ownership and tenancy arrangements.

A similar situation has left many apprehensive, such as Sandeep Jaiswal, who runs a small electrical repair shop. He came to Dalmandi in 2004 from Bareilly and managed to get two shops together. “I came to this market because it is central to Purvanchal with scope for steady work,” he says.

“I kept one of these shops as security for my family. Now, if I try to sell it, the offers I receive are even lower than what I paid 20 years ago. But I am uncertain on what authorities plan for shops like mine. I hope they either give us rehabilitation shops or create a market for us in the vicinity.”

Beyond Monetary Compensation – A Shop for a Shop

Over the years, several small complexes have been developed, divided into compact units mostly selling mobile phones, gadgets, and video-creation tools. Mostly run by young shopkeepers, they continue to demand a replacement shop rather than monetary compensation.

“The government could develop a new market nearby, as many shops in Dalmandi face complications in proving payments made to owners or even in producing tenancy documents,” a group of young shopkeepers tells Swarajya.

Apprehensive, since tenants are not entitled to any compensation and have no other options, these shopkeepers are insisting on a “shop for a shop” arrangement to continue their livelihoods.

At the same time, there is also some hope about compensation, based on the history of compensations provided during the Kashi corridor development, where payments were relatively fair for owners and others affected by the project. Amid these complexities and uncertainties, the narrow lane of Dalmandi waits for the next steps from the authorities.

However, officials from the PWD and Nagar Nigam clarify that there is no provision for tenants to receive any compensation. Any arrangements are strictly between the property owner and the tenant.

The authorities have already completed measurements, marked encroachments, and recorded structures based on official records.

Abhinesh Kumar, Chief Engineer, PWD Varanasi, tells Swarajya, “We have identified 181 structures based on the surveys conducted.”

“The process to be followed is the standard procedure for any road widening project by the PWD. For all identified structures, fair compensation will be offered, which is twice the market value, provided they can produce the proper documents,” he added.

After identifying the structures, PWD is now waiting for the required documents from different authorities before moving forward.

“Everyone will be fairly compensated according to the regulations defined for such projects in accordance with the Right to Fair Compensation & Transparency in Land Acquisition, Rehabilitation & Resettlement Act,” the Chief Engineer added.

According to another official, the agencies have documented multiple ways in which the structures are being used.

In some cases, ownership remains with families, passed down through generations.

However, there are other cases of kabza, where the original owners had moved elsewhere and tenants took over the structures. Similarly, in situations where families died and no one claimed ownership, others occupied the properties.

Further, many of these structures also continue to house tenants since decades.

“To clarify on these kinds of complexities, there are several processes we are following, which involves coordination between several departments,” the official told Swarajya.

“The PWD is receiving files from the Nagar Nigam on ownership and the tenure of stay in the identified structures,” the official added.

Since these are old structures and no regular property work has been done over the years, the tenure defined by the Nagar Nigam for residents will also be recognised for compensation purposes.

Additionally, the department will receive detailed information on pending taxes. The electricity department will provide records of commercial and residential permits, and the revenue department will send land-related documents.

According to Indian Express report, dues amounting to nearly Rs 2.28 crore, including house, water, and sewer taxes are pending against 170 of the 187 structures. Despite multiple reminders over the years, the owners have failed to clear the outstanding amounts.

The next step is to set up a camp that will provide information to all in Dalmandi. The camp will explain the documents they need to produce and discuss compensation and the overall process in detail. The plan to set up the camp is underway and is expected to take place in the coming week.

While the authorities are prepared to address all ownership-related concerns, the added challenge is the large number of shops that have emerged over the years. According to surveys conducted by the authorities, approximately 30 per cent of these shops are run by tenants.

The official stated that if tenants can provide proper documentation of ownership transfer or valid commercial tenancy agreements, their cases will be considered by the special committees formed for the project.

Further, for religious structures such as mosques, compensation will be provided if valid Waqf documents exist. Temples, however, are not privately owned, and if any are identified during the development process, they will be shifted to new land allocated by the government.

Thus, once again, a project, though short in length but significant in impact, remains entangled as it moves forward.

Amid these complexities and uncertainties, the narrow lane of Dalmandi waits for the next steps from the authorities. In the broader context of old Kashi, some also raise concerns about altering the city’s heritage, as it is famously known for its galliyan (narrow lanes).

However, many residents in surrounding regions see it as necessary given changing times, needs, and demographic shifts, viewing it as a step that aligns with the practical needs of the next 100 years for the temple town.

The authorities now estimate that once the acquisition process is completed and all issues of ownership and compensation are resolved, the next stages of development will progress more quickly, with the target for full completion set for March 2026.