Why The Kamakhya Project Is At A Crossroads

The Maa Kamakhya Kshetram in Assam is a spiritual site of devotion and historical importance, drawing millions of pilgrims annually.

Perched atop the Nilachal Hills in Guwahati, this ancient Shakti Peetha is a sacred centre of mysticism, associated with the worship of Goddess Kamakhya and Dasha Mahavidyas — a group of 10 goddesses in the Kaula marg of the tantric tradition.

For years, there have been calls to modernise the temple’s surroundings, create better infrastructure, and turn the region into a world-class pilgrimage and tourism destination.

The Maa Kamakhya Access Corridor, or Maa Kamakhya Divyalok Pariyojana, is an ambitious project aimed at improving accessibility, facilities, and the overall experience for devotees, similar to the Kashi and Mahakal corridors in Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, respectively.

Sanctioned under the Prime Minister’s Development Initiative for North Eastern Region (PM-DevINE), the project has a total outlay of Rs 498 crore.

The project aims to significantly expand the open space around the temple, increasing it from 3,000 square feet (sq ft) to about 100,000 sq ft, spread across three levels. The width of the access corridor will also be expanded from 8-10 ft to 27-30 ft, allowing smoother movement for pilgrims.

Additionally, the project will restore six major temples within the complex to their original splendour.

By improving infrastructure and increasing the space and capacity, the project will help accommodate 8,000-10,000 pilgrims, especially during peak events like the Ambubachi Mela, thereby enhancing the overall pilgrimage experience and easing crowd management at this revered site.

However, the vision is now caught in a web of controversies, environmental concerns, and local resistance. What started as a dream of a modern temple gateway now stands at a crossroads.

A Bold Vision Runs Into Obstacles

On paper, the Maa Kamakhya Corridor project was a masterstroke in blending spiritual heritage with modern development.

With its promise of improved road networks, upgraded visitor amenities, and a thriving local economy, it was heralded as a gamechanger for Assam.

The plan envisioned well-coordinated infrastructure that would cater to the growing number of pilgrims, potentially boosting tourism, creating jobs, and providing a sustainable economic boost to the region.

However, the path to progress turned bumpy.

The first major hurdle came from environmental and spiritual concerns.

Assam, with its lush landscapes, endangered species, and delicate ecosystems, is not the place for unchecked development.

The Nilachal Hills, where the Kamakhya Temple is situated, is a sensitive ecological zone. Environmentalists have raised alarm bells about the potential for deforestation, habitat loss, and pollution as a result of the corridor’s proposed infrastructure.

The government constructed a viewpoint on Nilachal Hill as part of the riverfront project. However, the access road has faced recurring issues, including landslides, rendering it non-functional.

Additionally, the hill has a sacred natural stream that flows beneath its surface. This stream appears in various pockets of the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) of the Kamakhya Temple, as well as the temples dedicated to the other Mahavidyas.

Essentially, the jala (water) is the deity (not the idol), and the darshan of these deities is termed as sparsha darshan (darshan through touch), where devotees touch the water and pray.

Senior pandas (priests) and sadhakas (devotees) have argued that any construction activity, such as drilling, would interrupt the natural flow of water and could even divert it, preventing its natural flow into the temples.

Additionally, prominent social media guru Rajarshi Nandy has stated that the hill is considered as Bhairav (a form of Shiva), and any construction activity that cuts down or drills into the hill would be sacrilegious.

The concerns extend beyond environmental challenges.

Indigenous communities in Assam, whose livelihoods and culture are deeply connected to the land, have voiced strong opposition. They fear the project will prioritise commercial interests, displace local populations, and erode their cultural heritage.

Their concerns are valid — when development comes in the name of tourism, it often leaves behind a trail of disruption, particularly for vulnerable groups.

A Lone Wolf

Amid widespread silence from both fellow pandas and government authorities, senior panda Navajyoti Sarma has emerged as a lone voice of resistance.

One of the distinguished members of the Borpujari families that have administered the Maa Kamakhya Temple for over two millennia, Sarma’s stand has not only been a defiant act of preservation but also a passionate call for the protection of the temple and its surrounding sacred land.

While most others either supported or remained silent in the face of the proposed Maa Kamakhya Access Corridor project, Sarma took the bold step of filing a public interest litigation (PIL) in the Gauhati High Court, challenging the project and its potential risks to the temple’s sanctity.

In his case, Navajyoti Sarma vs Union of India, Sarma presented a compelling argument centred on the preservation of the temple complex, which stretches across the Nilachal Hill and contains not only the Kamakhya Temple but also numerous sacred sites, springs, and archaeological treasures.

He emphasised that the proposed construction could drastically alter the landscape, potentially damaging the historically significant temples and disturbing the sacred energy of the place.

The corridors, according to Sarma, would likely disrupt the existing places of worship and lead to the destruction of precious stones, inscriptions, idols, and other sacred relics.

Sarma also raised concerns about the lack of legal protection for the temples and the surrounding sites.

Under the current legal framework, the temples are not protected by the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958. The exceptions are a few isolated landmarks, such as the Daurgaila Rock Inspection, some rock-cut figures of Ganesha, Shiva lingas, the four-handed Bhairabi, miniature Sikhara shrines, figures of Narakasur, two-handed Bhairabi, stone gateways, and the eight-handed dancing Bhairava.

With no designated authority to protect the sacred idols and archaeological sites, Sarma argued that the development work could proceed without adequate safeguards for the temples, risking irreparable damage to the ancient heritage.

Drawing upon the Assam Ancient Monuments and Records Act of 1959, Sarma pointed out that the state government is responsible for maintaining the protection of such sites, but no such protection had been officially designated for the broader Nilachal Hill area.

He appealed to the court for an urgent injunction against the construction work, especially after the notice to proceed was issued in March 2024. Sarma demanded that the government declare the Kamakhya Temple complex as a protected area before any further steps could be taken towards the construction of the access corridor.

His petition also underscored the failure of the state to conduct proper hydrological and irrigation surveys, which could have assessed the potential harm to the temple's sacred springs and the broader ecological balance of the area.

In response to Sarma’s appeal, the Gauhati High Court took a momentous step by stalling the construction of the corridor. The court ordered a hydrological survey to evaluate the project’s potential environmental impact on the sacred water sources and ecosystems of Nilachal Hill.

Despite assurances from the government that a joint team of experts — including the Public Works Department (PWD), Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Guwahati, and CSIR-National Geophysical Research Institute (CSIR-NGRI) — had conducted inspections in October, no actual construction had begun.

Sarma's call for historical protection remains a key point of contention, with the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) stating that the Kamakhya Temple had not been declared a monument of national importance under the Ancient Monuments Act.

The legal battle, however, has left the matter in limbo.

While certain rock inscriptions and sculptures around Nilachal Hill have been recognised as protected monuments, the Kamakhya Temple and adjoining Mahavidya temples have not been legally safeguarded, despite their rich 2000-year history.

So, the future of the proposed corridor hangs in the balance, dependent on the outcome of further assessments and legal proceedings.

I asked Sarma whether he had been intimidated by the government. He replied, “I am going against powerful people, but I do not fear. They may be powerful, but nobody is as powerful as Maa (Goddess Kamakhya). And Maa is with me.”

Sarma’s actions have forced a much-needed conversation about the balance between spiritual reverence and modern development.

As a lone wolf in this struggle, he continues to stand for the protection of a dharmic kshetra — a place that transcends commerce and development — and affirms that the sacred should remain untouched.

A Pause or a Goodbye?

So, where does the Maa Kamakhya Corridor go from here? Is this project doomed to become a casualty of overzealous planning, or is there hope for a more balanced approach?

For now, the Maa Kamakhya Corridor project is at a crossroads. While the initial vision was ambitious, there’s growing scepticism about whether it aligns with the true essence of the region’s spiritual and cultural identity.

Assam stands at a pivotal moment — not just geographically but also in how it will navigate the delicate balance between tradition and modernity, spirituality and commerce, and development and conservation.

While there is no doubt that the region’s infrastructure needs modernisation, the question remains whether such a project can be executed without compromising the sacredness of the place and its true purpose as a dharmic site.

Religious sites like Maa Kamakhya Temple are not mere tourist attractions. They are sacred spaces that belong first and foremost to bhaktas, sadhakas, and upasakas — the devotees and practitioners who approach them with deep reverence and spiritual discipline.

While tourism can bring economic benefits, it’s essential that such sites are not treated merely as cash cows, but rather respected for their spiritual significance.

Governments must exercise caution when looking at dharmic kshetras through a commercial lens, as such a view can dilute the sanctity and authenticity of these sites.

Besides, does Nilachala truly require such a massive corridor?

Historically, temples like Kamakhya and the Mahavidya temples have been gupta kshetras, meant for serious sadhakas and not for the masses. These places have always carried intense energy, and the tantric forms of worship practiced here — such as bali (animal sacrifice) and panchamakara rituals — are deeply spiritual and require full preparedness to handle the process.

Expanding the capacity of the hill beyond what is necessary could change the very essence of the place, transforming it from a sacred site for serious devotees into a mass pilgrimage destination, potentially compromising its sanctity.

Festivals like Ambubachi are not tourist melas but serious spiritual occasions for those devoted to the deities, and the presence of too many non-devotees could shift the focus from devotion to spectacle.

The will of both the deity and the devotee must be paramount in any decisions made about these sacred sites.

It’s crucial to ensure that the project aligns with the spiritual needs and values of the community, not just its economic ones.

Any development should be approached with deep respect for the sacred nature of dharmic kshetras.

It’s not about whether the corridor should be built, but rather, how it should be built — thoughtfully, respectfully, and in alignment with the deeper purpose of the temple.

The future of the Maa Kamakhya Corridor, thus, depends on the collective will to ensure that it honours both the past and the future, safeguarding the spiritual significance of this revered site while allowing for necessary, sustainable development.