Culture
Vivek Sunder
Jan 24, 2025, 10:42 AM | Updated 06:38 PM IST
Save & read from anywhere!
Bookmark stories for easy access on any device or the Swarajya app.
In January 2013, the Mahakumbh Mela was merely a fleeting headline for me — a historical oddity of spiritual significance read with detached interest in the morning newspaper.
Fast forward to December 2024, and I still had no plans to attend the grand spectacle of faith slated for January 2025 in Prayagraj.
Life, however, is often a confluence of serendipity and spontaneity. A good friend offered me a spot on a group tour, and before logic could intervene, I heard myself say yes.
Weeks later, I was on a flight to Prayagraj, camera gear in tow, preparing to witness the opening ceremonies, including the auspicious Amrit Snan (Royal Bath) on Makar Sankranti.
I did a fair amount of research before heading off to Prayag. Research, however extensive, proved inadequate. No amount of preparation could have readied me for the scale, energy, and spiritual magnetism of the Maha Kumbh — a phenomenon so immense, it defies description.
Yet here I was, determined to document what words could scarcely capture.
There are no words in the current lexicon that capture the magnitude of the event. If "Juggernaut" is a word that entered the English language because the Jagannath Puri Rath Yatra is an amazing spectacle of devotion and scale, then a new word must similarly enter the lexicon called "Mahakumbh" to describe an event of epic proportions.
Maha Kumbh 2025: A Colossal Celebration of Devotion and Humanity
The Mahakumbh Mela in Prayagraj is a phenomenon that defies description and challenges the imagination. As the 2025 Maha Kumbh unfolds, it has already established itself as one of the most spectacular gatherings in human history.
Here’s a look at some staggering statistics and insights that make this year’s Maha Kumbh an unparalleled event.
Over the 46 days of the festival, a jaw-dropping 500 million people are expected to visit the 40 square-kilometre (km) Kumbh area, with the peak day of Mauni Amavasya (29 January) projected to see 60-80 million visitors.
To put this in perspective, imagine the entire population of Britain converging into a town the size of Portsmouth, or all of Tamil Nadu squeezing into Ooty — on a single day!
A Temporary City on the Riverbed
Nearly all the visitors are housed in sprawling tented camps set up on the riverbed of the Ganges.
The feat of infrastructure here is astonishing: electricity, piped water, sanitation facilities, metal pathways, and mobile connectivity have all been established.
Remarkably, this entire area will be submerged under water during the monsoon, just six months from now.
The temporary Kumbh city rivals the grandeur of historical marvels like the Chola Brihadeeswara Temple or the Egyptian Pyramids in terms of human endeavour.
State-of-the-Art Safety and Surveillance
To ensure people's safety in this massive congregation, 2,700 artificial intelligence (AI)-enabled cameras and air and underwater drones have been deployed across the mela.
These technologies feed real-time data to control towers and on-ground teams, enabling prompt action and unparalleled security management.
Additionally, 45,000 police personnel have been stationed across the Kumbh area, supported by 55 temporary police stations. For context, this is three times the police force of Bengaluru, a city 20 times larger.
It would be no exaggeration to call Kumbhnagari one of the safest cities in India during this period.
Cleanliness and Hygiene at Scale
Hygiene has been another standout feature. A whopping 150,000 toilets have been installed. Fifteen-thousand sanitation workers maintain these toilets, and each of them manages about 2,500 sq metres (m) of the mela area.
This workforce — comparable to that of Bengaluru — is ensuring Kumbhnagari remains the cleanest city in the country, even as it accommodates millions.
Crisis Management and Preparedness
The mela’s meticulous planning has already proven its worth. For instance, a cylinder blast and subsequent fire in Sector 19 recently tested the emergency response system.
Within just four minutes, fire tenders were on site to douse the flames, and the incident resulted in zero casualties — a testament to the organisers’ efficiency and preparedness.
Economic Impact
The 2025 Maha Kumbh has a Rs 7,500 crore budget, but its anticipated economic impact is a staggering Rs 200,000 crore.
To put this in perspective, this (annualised) economic output surpasses the gross domestic product (GDP) of over 130 countries! What’s more, much of the infrastructure built for the mela is permanent, promising long-term benefits for the region.
A Melting Pot of Humanity
During my three-day stay, I encountered a vibrant diversity of cultures, languages, and kindness. I heard 26 languages spoken, including 10 foreign languages.
It was a transformative experience. Amidst the devotion and grandeur, I encountered kindness, diversity, and a deep sense of spiritual purpose.
From receiving blessings from nearly every sadhu I photographed, free piping-hot food from camps feeding the masses, and assistance from strangers in every direction, the warmth of humanity was as profound as the celestial significance of this event.
In a gathering of 30 million people, such collective positivity and goodwill is nothing short of extraordinary. As I immersed myself in this once-in-a-lifetime experience, I came to understand the meticulous planning behind it, the profound myths that underpin it, and the awe-inspiring traditions that define it.
Themes of Mahakumbh 2025
The organisers of this year’s Maha Kumbh embraced three overarching mottos that encapsulate its essence:
1. स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Triple S): Clean, safe, well-organised
2. दिव्य, भव्य, नव्य: Divine, grand, novel
3. अलौकिक, अद्भुत, अकल्पनीय (Triple A): Phenomenal, unique, unimaginable
These nine adjectives perfectly describe Maha Kumbh 2025.
The Story of the Kumbh
The origin of the Kumbh is rooted in the Vishnu Purana, an epic tale of gods, demons, and divine nectar.
The saga begins with Indra’s arrogance, which leads Rishi Durvasa to curse the Devas, stripping them of their power. Seeking restoration, the Devas turn to Lord Vishnu, who suggests the churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan) to retrieve the nectar of immortality (Amrit).
The churning involves the Devas and Asuras using the serpent Vasuki as a rope and Mount Mandar as the churning rod, balanced on Vishnu in his tortoise (Kurma) avatar. This effort yields extraordinary treasures:
Halahala poison: Consumed by Shiva, earning him the name Neelakantha
Kamadhenu: The wish-fulfilling cow
Panchajanya: The divine conch
Parijata: The night jasmine
Varuni: The goddess of wine
Dhanvantari: The god of ayurveda
Lakshmi: The goddess of wealth
Amrit: The nectar of immortality contained in an earthen pot (Kumbh)
A fierce battle ensues between the Devas and Asuras for the Amrit. Lord Vishnu, in his enchanting Mohini avatar, distracts the Asuras and ensures the Devas secure the nectar.
During the chaos, drops of Amrit fall to the earth at four places: Haridwar, Prayagraj, Ujjain, and Nashik — the sites of the Kumbh Mela.
The Astronomical Significance
The timing of each Kumbh is aligned with specific planetary movements:
Haridwar: Jupiter in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries
Prayagraj: Jupiter in Aries, with the Sun and Moon in Capricorn during Amavasya and once more when the Sun enters Capricorn and Jupiter moves into Taurus
Nasik: Jupiter in Leo
Ujjain: Jupiter in Leo, with the Sun in Aries
This year, the 2025 Maha Kumbh marks a once-in-144-year event, aligning the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with the Pushya Nakshatra. The resulting cosmic energy was palpable throughout my stay, creating an atmosphere of profound spiritual intensity.
The Naga Sadhus: Guardians of Tradition
The iconic Naga sadhus are central to the Kumbh. These ascetics, who renounce material life for spiritual enlightenment, undergo rigorous training spanning 10-12 years. Their lifestyle involves meditation, austerity, and celibacy, often in seclusion.
The term 'Naga' derives from the Sanskrit word for mountain (“नग”), not the word for serpent (“नाग”). Contrary to popular belief, it is also unrelated to the Hindi word for naked (“नंगा”), though they remain unclothed to symbolise detachment.
Naga sadhus belong to monastic orders known as akhadas, which Adi Shankaracharya organised over 1,100 years ago. These akhadas are further divided into Shaivite, Vaishnavite, and Udasin groups, each preserving specific traditions, philosophies, and practices.
In 2025, approximately 12,000 ascetics are set to be anointed as Naga sadhus on Mauni Amavasya, the holiest of the four Amrit Snan days.
A Profound Experience
From the vibrant diversity of languages to the warmth of human interaction, the Maha Kumbh 2025 encapsulates the very best of humanity.
This gathering of millions is not just an event; it is a testament to faith, tradition, and the unyielding human spirit.
Whether through the lens of spirituality, celestial alignment, or the living heritage of the Naga sadhus, the Maha Kumbh is a reminder of the timeless connection between the cosmos, culture, and community.
Let me run you through the three days I spent at Mahakumbh and what they looked like.
Day Zero: Arrival in a City Transformed
As I landed, it became immediately apparent that the usual rules of space, time, and infrastructure had been suspended. All roads — literal and metaphorical — led to Prayagraj.
The city was a hive of movement, a symphony of trains, buses, and planes ferrying an astonishing 500 million pilgrims over 46 days.
We were housed in a sprawling tented camp on the banks of the Ganga, part of the temporary city — Kumbh Nagari — erected for this event. Spanning 40 sq km, this ephemeral metropolis boasted electricity, running water, and sanitation facilities — all destined to be submerged once the monsoon returned.
The sheer logistics were staggering. From 150,000 toilets manned by 15,000 sanitation workers to 30 pontoon bridges connecting the riverbanks, it felt like stepping into a realm where human ingenuity and divine devotion worked hand in hand.
Day One: A Sea of Humanity
The next day, I ventured deeper into Kumbh Nagari, familiarising myself with its geography. Brightly coloured tents housed akharas — monastic orders of sadhus — while pontoon bridges bustled with pilgrims heading towards the Triveni Sangam, the sacred confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati rivers.
The energy was electric, yet remarkably safe.
Day Two: The First Amrit Snan
The defining moment of my trip came at 3 am on Makar Sankranti, the day of the first Amrit Snan. Braving the biting cold, I joined millions of devotees heading toward the Triveni Sangam.
As the sun rose, an ocean of humanity surged forward, chanting “Har Har Mahadev!” The air vibrated with devotion, the collective energy of 20 million souls culminating in a crescendo of spiritual fervour.
The sadhus, especially the elusive Naga sadhus, commanded attention. Clad only in ash, their austere presence was a reminder of the ancient traditions anchoring this modern marvel.
Watching them take their ceremonial dips felt like witnessing a living thread of history, unbroken for millennia.
Day Three: Farewell to a Once-in-a-Lifetime Event
On my final day, I crossed the Nag Vasuki Bridge to visit the eponymous temple. This ancient shrine, dedicated to the divine serpent Vasuki, seemed to encapsulate the mythological and spiritual essence of the Kumbh.
As I left the sacred grounds, I carried with me not just memories but a profound sense of gratitude — for the volunteers and workers whose tireless efforts had orchestrated this monumental event, and for the rare cosmic alignment that had made this Maha Kumbh a once-in-144-year phenomenon.
Reflections on the Indescribable
The Mahakumbh Mela is often described in superlatives — its scale, its numbers, and its logistics. But for me, the real marvel lay in its spirit. It is a place where faith transcended boundaries of language, caste, and nationality, where the extraordinary became routine, and where even the most jaded among us could feel the pulse of something greater than ourselves.