Culture

In Photos: A Personal Journey Through The Amrit At Maha Kumbh 2025

Vivek Sunder

Jan 24, 2025, 10:42 AM | Updated 06:38 PM IST


Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan
Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan

In January 2013, the Mahakumbh Mela was merely a fleeting headline for me — a historical oddity of spiritual significance read with detached interest in the morning newspaper.

Fast forward to December 2024, and I still had no plans to attend the grand spectacle of faith slated for January 2025 in Prayagraj.

Life, however, is often a confluence of serendipity and spontaneity. A good friend offered me a spot on a group tour, and before logic could intervene, I heard myself say yes.

Weeks later, I was on a flight to Prayagraj, camera gear in tow, preparing to witness the opening ceremonies, including the auspicious Amrit Snan (Royal Bath) on Makar Sankranti.

I did a fair amount of research before heading off to Prayag. Research, however extensive, proved inadequate. No amount of preparation could have readied me for the scale, energy, and spiritual magnetism of the Maha Kumbh — a phenomenon so immense, it defies description.

Yet here I was, determined to document what words could scarcely capture.

There are no words in the current lexicon that capture the magnitude of the event. If "Juggernaut" is a word that entered the English language because the Jagannath Puri Rath Yatra is an amazing spectacle of devotion and scale, then a new word must similarly enter the lexicon called "Mahakumbh" to describe an event of epic proportions.

Maha Kumbh 2025: A Colossal Celebration of Devotion and Humanity

The Mahakumbh Mela in Prayagraj is a phenomenon that defies description and challenges the imagination. As the 2025 Maha Kumbh unfolds, it has already established itself as one of the most spectacular gatherings in human history.

Here’s a look at some staggering statistics and insights that make this year’s Maha Kumbh an unparalleled event.

Over the 46 days of the festival, a jaw-dropping 500 million people are expected to visit the 40 square-kilometre (km) Kumbh area, with the peak day of Mauni Amavasya (29 January) projected to see 60-80 million visitors.

To put this in perspective, imagine the entire population of Britain converging into a town the size of Portsmouth, or all of Tamil Nadu squeezing into Ooty — on a single day!

The 30 pontoon bridges connecting both the banks of Ganga are the lifeline for pilgrims and supplies
The 30 pontoon bridges connecting both the banks of Ganga are the lifeline for pilgrims and supplies

A Temporary City on the Riverbed

Nearly all the visitors are housed in sprawling tented camps set up on the riverbed of the Ganges.

The feat of infrastructure here is astonishing: electricity, piped water, sanitation facilities, metal pathways, and mobile connectivity have all been established.

Remarkably, this entire area will be submerged under water during the monsoon, just six months from now.

The temporary Kumbh city rivals the grandeur of historical marvels like the Chola Brihadeeswara Temple or the Egyptian Pyramids in terms of human endeavour.

State-of-the-Art Safety and Surveillance

To ensure people's safety in this massive congregation, 2,700 artificial intelligence (AI)-enabled cameras and air and underwater drones have been deployed across the mela.

These technologies feed real-time data to control towers and on-ground teams, enabling prompt action and unparalleled security management.

Additionally, 45,000 police personnel have been stationed across the Kumbh area, supported by 55 temporary police stations. For context, this is three times the police force of Bengaluru, a city 20 times larger.

It would be no exaggeration to call Kumbhnagari one of the safest cities in India during this period.

Surveillance drones, visible as dimly lit objects in the sky
Surveillance drones, visible as dimly lit objects in the sky

Cleanliness and Hygiene at Scale

Hygiene has been another standout feature. A whopping 150,000 toilets have been installed. Fifteen-thousand sanitation workers maintain these toilets, and each of them manages about 2,500 sq metres (m) of the mela area.

This workforce — comparable to that of Bengaluru — is ensuring Kumbhnagari remains the cleanest city in the country, even as it accommodates millions.

Crisis Management and Preparedness

The mela’s meticulous planning has already proven its worth. For instance, a cylinder blast and subsequent fire in Sector 19 recently tested the emergency response system.

Within just four minutes, fire tenders were on site to douse the flames, and the incident resulted in zero casualties — a testament to the organisers’ efficiency and preparedness.

One can see the cleanliness of the sand and the orderliness of the crowd at Sangam Snan Ghat for the general public
One can see the cleanliness of the sand and the orderliness of the crowd at Sangam Snan Ghat for the general public

Economic Impact

The 2025 Maha Kumbh has a Rs 7,500 crore budget, but its anticipated economic impact is a staggering Rs 200,000 crore.

To put this in perspective, this (annualised) economic output surpasses the gross domestic product (GDP) of over 130 countries! What’s more, much of the infrastructure built for the mela is permanent, promising long-term benefits for the region.

Two men selling janeu (sacred thread) to pilgrims
Two men selling janeu (sacred thread) to pilgrims
Roadside barber giving the pilgrims a nice, warm shave
Roadside barber giving the pilgrims a nice, warm shave

A Melting Pot of Humanity

During my three-day stay, I encountered a vibrant diversity of cultures, languages, and kindness. I heard 26 languages spoken, including 10 foreign languages.

It was a transformative experience. Amidst the devotion and grandeur, I encountered kindness, diversity, and a deep sense of spiritual purpose.

From receiving blessings from nearly every sadhu I photographed, free piping-hot food from camps feeding the masses, and assistance from strangers in every direction, the warmth of humanity was as profound as the celestial significance of this event.

It is not only the adults making the pilgrimage to Maha Kumbh
It is not only the adults making the pilgrimage to Maha Kumbh
A child at Maha Kumbh adorning chandan tilak on his forehead
A child at Maha Kumbh adorning chandan tilak on his forehead

In a gathering of 30 million people, such collective positivity and goodwill is nothing short of extraordinary. As I immersed myself in this once-in-a-lifetime experience, I came to understand the meticulous planning behind it, the profound myths that underpin it, and the awe-inspiring traditions that define it.

A sadhu at the Maha Kumbh
A sadhu at the Maha Kumbh

Themes of Mahakumbh 2025

The organisers of this year’s Maha Kumbh embraced three overarching mottos that encapsulate its essence:

1. स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Triple S): Clean, safe, well-organised

2. दिव्य, भव्य, नव्य: Divine, grand, novel

3. अलौकिक, अद्भुत, अकल्पनीय (Triple A): Phenomenal, unique, unimaginable

These nine adjectives perfectly describe Maha Kumbh 2025.

स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Clean, safe, well-organised) Maha Kumbh 2025
स्वच्छ, सुरक्षित, सुव्यवस्थित (Clean, safe, well-organised) Maha Kumbh 2025

The Story of the Kumbh 

The origin of the Kumbh is rooted in the Vishnu Purana, an epic tale of gods, demons, and divine nectar.

The saga begins with Indra’s arrogance, which leads Rishi Durvasa to curse the Devas, stripping them of their power. Seeking restoration, the Devas turn to Lord Vishnu, who suggests the churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan) to retrieve the nectar of immortality (Amrit).

Sagar Manthan depicted in stone at Angkor Vat in Cambodia
Sagar Manthan depicted in stone at Angkor Vat in Cambodia

The churning involves the Devas and Asuras using the serpent Vasuki as a rope and Mount Mandar as the churning rod, balanced on Vishnu in his tortoise (Kurma) avatar. This effort yields extraordinary treasures:

  • Halahala poison: Consumed by Shiva, earning him the name Neelakantha

  • Kamadhenu: The wish-fulfilling cow

  • Panchajanya: The divine conch

  • Parijata: The night jasmine

  • Varuni: The goddess of wine

  • Dhanvantari: The god of ayurveda

  • Lakshmi: The goddess of wealth

  • Amrit: The nectar of immortality contained in an earthen pot (Kumbh)

A fierce battle ensues between the Devas and Asuras for the Amrit. Lord Vishnu, in his enchanting Mohini avatar, distracts the Asuras and ensures the Devas secure the nectar.

During the chaos, drops of Amrit fall to the earth at four places: Haridwar, Prayagraj, Ujjain, and Nashik — the sites of the Kumbh Mela.

The Astronomical Significance

The timing of each Kumbh is aligned with specific planetary movements:

  • Haridwar: Jupiter in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries

  • Prayagraj: Jupiter in Aries, with the Sun and Moon in Capricorn during Amavasya and once more when the Sun enters Capricorn and Jupiter moves into Taurus

  • Nasik: Jupiter in Leo

  • Ujjain: Jupiter in Leo, with the Sun in Aries

This year, the 2025 Maha Kumbh marks a once-in-144-year event, aligning the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with the Pushya Nakshatra. The resulting cosmic energy was palpable throughout my stay, creating an atmosphere of profound spiritual intensity.

A sadhu blowing a conch at the end of his prayers and dip in the Ganga
A sadhu blowing a conch at the end of his prayers and dip in the Ganga

The Naga Sadhus: Guardians of Tradition

The iconic Naga sadhus are central to the Kumbh. These ascetics, who renounce material life for spiritual enlightenment, undergo rigorous training spanning 10-12 years. Their lifestyle involves meditation, austerity, and celibacy, often in seclusion.

A Naga sadhu akhara returning to their camp for a special ceremony or puja
A Naga sadhu akhara returning to their camp for a special ceremony or puja

The term 'Naga' derives from the Sanskrit word for mountain (“नग”), not the word for serpent (“नाग”). Contrary to popular belief, it is also unrelated to the Hindi word for naked (“नंगा”), though they remain unclothed to symbolise detachment.

A Naga sadhu in his ashram
A Naga sadhu in his ashram

Naga sadhus belong to monastic orders known as akhadas, which Adi Shankaracharya organised over 1,100 years ago. These akhadas are further divided into Shaivite, Vaishnavite, and Udasin groups, each preserving specific traditions, philosophies, and practices.

The Kumbh Mela has a fairly large contingent of Sikhs, or the "Udaseen" order sadhus, who are the third type of akharas amongst the 13 main akharas
The Kumbh Mela has a fairly large contingent of Sikhs, or the "Udaseen" order sadhus, who are the third type of akharas amongst the 13 main akharas
A Vaishnavite akhara with flags and chants of Jai Sri Ram
A Vaishnavite akhara with flags and chants of Jai Sri Ram

In 2025, approximately 12,000 ascetics are set to be anointed as Naga sadhus on Mauni Amavasya, the holiest of the four Amrit Snan days.

A sadhu carrying a golden trishul (trident)
A sadhu carrying a golden trishul (trident)

A Profound Experience

From the vibrant diversity of languages to the warmth of human interaction, the Maha Kumbh 2025 encapsulates the very best of humanity.

This gathering of millions is not just an event; it is a testament to faith, tradition, and the unyielding human spirit.

Whether through the lens of spirituality, celestial alignment, or the living heritage of the Naga sadhus, the Maha Kumbh is a reminder of the timeless connection between the cosmos, culture, and community.

Let me run you through the three days I spent at Mahakumbh and what they looked like.

The Prayagraj Airport has been spruced up to receive crores of pilgrims at Maha Kumbh 2025
The Prayagraj Airport has been spruced up to receive crores of pilgrims at Maha Kumbh 2025

Day Zero: Arrival in a City Transformed

As I landed, it became immediately apparent that the usual rules of space, time, and infrastructure had been suspended. All roads — literal and metaphorical — led to Prayagraj.

The city was a hive of movement, a symphony of trains, buses, and planes ferrying an astonishing 500 million pilgrims over 46 days.

The tented camps with 24x7 electricity, running water, and hot water
The tented camps with 24x7 electricity, running water, and hot water
One striking feature of the Maha Kumbh is cleanliness of the whole encampment. This photo of a Snan Ghat is how most of the Kumbhanagari was.
One striking feature of the Maha Kumbh is cleanliness of the whole encampment. This photo of a Snan Ghat is how most of the Kumbhanagari was.

We were housed in a sprawling tented camp on the banks of the Ganga, part of the temporary city — Kumbh Nagari — erected for this event. Spanning 40 sq km, this ephemeral metropolis boasted electricity, running water, and sanitation facilities — all destined to be submerged once the monsoon returned.

Private changing enclosures separately built for ladies coming to take a snan in the Sangam
Private changing enclosures separately built for ladies coming to take a snan in the Sangam
An akhara crossing the pontoon bridge to return to their camp after the Amrit Snan in Ganga
An akhara crossing the pontoon bridge to return to their camp after the Amrit Snan in Ganga

The sheer logistics were staggering. From 150,000 toilets manned by 15,000 sanitation workers to 30 pontoon bridges connecting the riverbanks, it felt like stepping into a realm where human ingenuity and divine devotion worked hand in hand.

Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan
Sadhus making space for Acharya Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara to perform the first snan

Day One: A Sea of Humanity

The next day, I ventured deeper into Kumbh Nagari, familiarising myself with its geography. Brightly coloured tents housed akharas — monastic orders of sadhus — while pontoon bridges bustled with pilgrims heading towards the Triveni Sangam, the sacred confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati rivers.

The energy was electric, yet remarkably safe.

A sea of humanity at the Mahakumbh 2025.
A sea of humanity at the Mahakumbh 2025.
The monastic tradition of akharas also includes women. Sadhvis (female monks) were all over the Maha Kumbh
The monastic tradition of akharas also includes women. Sadhvis (female monks) were all over the Maha Kumbh
Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara being carried in a motorised chariot towards the Sangham Ghat
Mahamandaleshwar of an akhara being carried in a motorised chariot towards the Sangham Ghat

Day Two: The First Amrit Snan

The defining moment of my trip came at 3 am on Makar Sankranti, the day of the first Amrit Snan. Braving the biting cold, I joined millions of devotees heading toward the Triveni Sangam.

As the sun rose, an ocean of humanity surged forward, chanting “Har Har Mahadev!” The air vibrated with devotion, the collective energy of 20 million souls culminating in a crescendo of spiritual fervour.

A pilgrim all the way from Kashmir taking an early morning dip in the Ganga
A pilgrim all the way from Kashmir taking an early morning dip in the Ganga

The sadhus, especially the elusive Naga sadhus, commanded attention. Clad only in ash, their austere presence was a reminder of the ancient traditions anchoring this modern marvel.

Watching them take their ceremonial dips felt like witnessing a living thread of history, unbroken for millennia.

A young sadhu standing calmly in a chilly atmosphere at 6 degrees Celsius
A young sadhu standing calmly in a chilly atmosphere at 6 degrees Celsius
A tapasvi with a crown and adornment of hundreds of Rudraksha beads. The smoke is from the sacred fire and his chillum (smoking pipe)
A tapasvi with a crown and adornment of hundreds of Rudraksha beads. The smoke is from the sacred fire and his chillum (smoking pipe)

Day Three: Farewell to a Once-in-a-Lifetime Event

On my final day, I crossed the Nag Vasuki Bridge to visit the eponymous temple. This ancient shrine, dedicated to the divine serpent Vasuki, seemed to encapsulate the mythological and spiritual essence of the Kumbh.

The 1,000-year-old Nag Vasuki temple, dedicated to the divine serpant Vasuki, was rebuilt by Marathas after it was destroyed by the invaders
The 1,000-year-old Nag Vasuki temple, dedicated to the divine serpant Vasuki, was rebuilt by Marathas after it was destroyed by the invaders
These boatmen have plied their trade on "Maa Ganga" for generations
These boatmen have plied their trade on "Maa Ganga" for generations

As I left the sacred grounds, I carried with me not just memories but a profound sense of gratitude — for the volunteers and workers whose tireless efforts had orchestrated this monumental event, and for the rare cosmic alignment that had made this Maha Kumbh a once-in-144-year phenomenon.

Me on the bank of Ganga
Me on the bank of Ganga

Reflections on the Indescribable

The Mahakumbh Mela is often described in superlatives — its scale, its numbers, and its logistics. But for me, the real marvel lay in its spirit. It is a place where faith transcended boundaries of language, caste, and nationality, where the extraordinary became routine, and where even the most jaded among us could feel the pulse of something greater than ourselves.


Get Swarajya in your inbox.


Magazine


image
States