Ground Reports

'Pride' Over Progress? Srinagar Is Changing For The Better, But Not All Are Willing To Acknowledge It

Sharan Setty and Ankit Saxena

Sep 19, 2024, 04:22 PM | Updated 04:59 PM IST


Srinagar has undergone a massive makeover since 2019.
Srinagar has undergone a massive makeover since 2019.
  • The change in Srinagar is undeniable. But there are those who are not willing to acknowledge it still.
  • Srinagar, the capital of Jammu and Kashmir, has recently witnessed a transformation that has reshaped its infrastructure, lifestyle, and image.

    The city, once synonymous with political turmoil, now presents a new essence — one that many feel was long overdue.

    Over the past few years, the abrogation of articles 370 and 35A opened up Srinagar to much-needed development and modernisation.

    Before this, the city remained stagnant, locked in a cycle of shutdowns, protests, and political unrest for nearly seven decades. This political instability also delayed infrastructural growth and progress for its people.

    Today, streets that were often deserted during times of conflict are now lively, with businesses operating freely and tourists enjoying the city’s famed beauty.

    While this shift marks a new chapter for Srinagar, the reception to these changes remains mixed, with some welcoming the progress and many hesitant to embrace it.

    Post-Abrogation Developments

    “It wasn’t always like this. These changes have come in the last three or four years,” said an auto driver, while talking about the city’s evolution. “Our city has always been beautiful, but it never received the attention it needed to keep up with modern times.”

    One of the most visible improvements has been the introduction of electric buses under the Smart City project.

    Earlier, people only had to travel in shared private cars as taxis, or in auto-rickshaws, which were not accessible to everyone. “These buses have been a huge help. Now, even my kids use them to travel to school,” he adds.

    Further to this, city mobility has greatly improved, with more attention being paid to pedestrian-friendly infrastructure and beautification.

    A new walkway and cycle track have been built along the NPL Bund from Nishat (Foreshore Road) to Dole Demb along Dal Lake, offering residents and tourists alike a unique experience.

    Visitors of all ages can now be seen enjoying the walkway, even late into the evening.

    The new electric buses in Srinagar.
    The new electric buses in Srinagar.
    New developments in the city.
    New developments in the city.
    New developments in the city.
    New developments in the city.

    'Resistance' To Change

    However, not all are satisfied with these changes, and many continue to express dissatisfaction with the recent developments.

    Several shopkeepers expressed their stubbornness to change, saying the changes were unnecessary.

    “We were fine the way things were before,” they said. “They have made these pavements, for people to walk, and reduced the size of the roads. Because of this, now fewer people come to our shops.”

    According to them, customers prefer driving right up to the shop, picking up what they need, and leaving in their cars. This was a common sentiment among those opposing the changes.

    Others complained about the informal arrangements being shifted to a regulated market space — where they are now required to follow guidelines and pay municipal fees — something they previously managed to avoid.

    "Who’s going to use these cycle tracks? We used to place our food stalls here, but now we've been moved to a different area," they lamented.

    “We don’t need all of this,” said another local, while getting down from an electric bus, that were introduced under the Smart City project.

    He continued, “These projects are a waste of money and an excuse for corruption by the Centre. We had to face so many challenges when the work was happening.”

    The Next Challenge: Changing Perceptions

    While this reflects a broader resistance among some locals who feel the changes have disrupted their way of life, the upgrade of the city and its infrastructure may gradually be accepted with time or through increased awareness. Then again, it could be that the resistance is not driven by material reasons but ideological or communal factors.

    In contrast to these wary opinions, many others have come to realise the necessity of these changes, based on their experiences over the past year.

    A shawl vendor in the Nishat Garden area remarked on how the changes has improved access for pedestrians.

    “Previously, there was only one footpath, and most of the roads were packed with vehicles. It was difficult for anyone without a car to navigate the area.”

    Now, developed market spaces and pedestrian walkways have allowed people, both locals and tourists, to move around the city comfortably, even at night — a time when many used to fear roaming around.

    Once an area where people feared staying out after dark, these changes have made it more welcoming and vibrant.

    Several shopkeepers and stalls are benefiting with increased tourism.
    Several shopkeepers and stalls are benefiting with increased tourism.
    The walkways and cycling tracks in use in evenings.
    The walkways and cycling tracks in use in evenings.
    Also being used by public for multiple activities.
    Also being used by public for multiple activities.
    Also being used by public for multiple activities.
    Also being used by public for multiple activities.

    A hotel owner near Brein Road shared, “This has completely changed the face of our area. Having worked in cities like Delhi and Bangalore, I've seen how haphazard growth hampers city life. Srinagar now has the opportunity to grow in a more organised way, as it is seeing more growth in commerce and tourism. ”

    He added, “You should go to markets at Lal Chowk and Polo Market, which are now no less than Khan Market in Delhi or Colaba in Mumbai.”

    Lal Chowk’s Transformations

    Recently, Prime Minister Narendra Modi had recalled the peak of militancy in Jammu and Kashmir, a time when shops and business establishments would shut down before dusk due to fear and unrest.

    He mentioned that the Home Minister of the previous Congress-led government was too “frightened” to visit Lal Chowk, the heart of Srinagar.

    Lal Chowk, the central business district (CBD) of Srinagar, had long been plagued by unrest, strikes, stone-pelting, and anti-national demonstrations, including the infamous events of 15 August 2013, when Pakistani flags were hoisted.

    The area was overburdened with traffic, unregulated street vendors, and inadequate services.

    However, things are different today.

    Athar Aamir Khan, who led the redevelopment project, said, “The goal was to blend the old charm of the city centre with modern urban features.”

    The redevelopment plan includes pedestrianised zones, lighting strips, water channels, play areas, and shopping streets, creating a more vibrant environment for locals and visitors alike.

    A long-time shop owner near the clock tower in Lal Chowk tells Swarajya, “Our shop has been here since the 1960s, and we have witnessed all the changes. There were years when this very area was notorious for anti-national activities.”

    “We often had to close our shops and flee. Now, things are different. Business has improved with fewer vehicles; more tourists are coming in and the area has become more organised.”

    Another shopkeeper added, “Honestly, for us, it gives a sense of safety and control, which was most essential here. Now, business has increased. We no longer have to close our shops abruptly and wait for weeks, like we used to during strikes or stone-pelting incidents.”

    A shopowner near the clock tower at Lal Chowk.
    A shopowner near the clock tower at Lal Chowk.
    Lal Chowk
    Lal Chowk
    Locals and tourists at the  newly developed promenade at Lal Chowk.
    Locals and tourists at the newly developed promenade at Lal Chowk.
    Polo view market has been transformed into city’s first completely pedestrian and wire free market.
    Polo view market has been transformed into city’s first completely pedestrian and wire free market.
    Gulzar, at his family shop in Polo view market, believes that the development was important with the changing times.
    Gulzar, at his family shop in Polo view market, believes that the development was important with the changing times.

    While the improvements and beautification efforts are visible, for many locals, these changes represent much more than just aesthetic or commercial upgrades.

    It has given a deeper sense of security and peace, which had been missing from daily life in Srinagar for years.

    Sharan Setty is Associate Editor, Swarajya. Ankit Saxena is Infrastructure Analyst, Swarajya.


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